Know your Soil
Soil you say? Tell me more.
Ever find yourself kneeling in a garden bed, dirt under your nails and wonder what’s in your soil? In my case, it’s also on my face. 🤪 What’s in it? Worms, decomposing plants, bugs, nutrients… what else? I live in northern Utah. My climate is considered a desert with cold winters and snowfall that is varied and unpredictable. Generally speaking, we receive very little rainfall during the summer months in 90-100 plus degree temperatures. Why am I telling you about my climate, you ask? Your climate can help you understand your soil and how it may or may not hold onto nutrients. Additionally, you can learn what nutrients you may or may not need to add in order to grow beautiful vegetation, and for me… my favorite FLOWERS! In short, “Success starts with soil.”
What is Soil? It’s a combination of weathered rock and organic material. The three main powerhouse essential nutrients all plants need are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. These three are clearly spelled out in all fertilizers and represented by their Element designations of N, P, and K. Here’s a great saying I heard in a recent gardener course to remind you of the purpose of each. NPK…. Top, Down, and all around. Nitrogen (N) is providing the plant with what it requires for leafy growth. Phosphorus (P) provides for the development of strong roots, and Potassium (K) is essential for strong stems. Each of these contributes in a much more complex way, but this is the most simple way to think about the roles of N,P and K.
5-3-3 “N-P-K”
I have enough phosphorus and potassium in my soil from my native parent material and because it tends to accumulate from the lack of rain in the summer. So, thankfully, I don’t have to worry about those nutrients. What a relief! Your needs may be different than mine depending on your climate and native soil. Something to think about. For me, all I have to worry about, is adding nitrogen. I have a local extension office, and they connect me to a soil expert. I can send in samples and they will tell me my nutrient levels in the three categories and what I need to add or avoid. This can be very helpful and take the headache out of managing your soil.
“I call it Cup of Dirt” - Brian Regan
Okay, now for some real “dirty” talk. Let’s talk about soil types. Clay, sand, and silt. These three minerals make up the texture of soil and affect water intake, water storage, ease of tillage, amount of airflow, and the soil fertility. Each contributes to a plants ability to grow and thrive.
Clay is composed of tiny particles and can be challenging to work with, but also has its benefits. When wet, clay can become very dense and compact. This can affect the level of oxygen the plant receives. It also holds onto water. This is both good and bad. Remember there is no such thing as perfection in gardening.
The pros of clay:
Clay holds onto nutrients. That’s a huge bonus.
Clay holds water. Sweet, you have to water less. Water slowly, less frequently, and longer to allow deeper penetration to roots.
Clay helps plants become more drought tolerant. Watering more deeply, for longer periods of time, and less frequently encourages deeper and stronger roots that will dry out less quickly than shallow-rooted plants.
The cons of clay:
The tiny particles when wet become very compact, dense, and sticky. This can be difficult and frustrating to work in. On the opposite spectrum, when it’s dry, it can feel like you’re shoveling through cement. Difficult to till.
The airflow is limited and can deprive plants from oxygen which is important for the plant to grow and thrive.
It doesn’t drain well and some plants hate to be wet for an extended period of time.
Clay. Look at all that compaction.
Sandy soil is nearly the opposite of clay soil. It is gritty and grainy to the touch. It is composed of particles much larger than clay and drains incredibly well.
Pros of sandy soil:
Drains well. It has nice airflow, so that plant can breathe and move around freely.
The roots are free to grow and spread without inhibition. This relates to my personality, haha.
It doesn’t get compact and dense when wet. This makes it easier to work with. Easier to till, and when dry, much easier to work with than clay.
Cons of sandy soil:
It drains quickly and doesn’t hold onto nutrients.
You have to water less and more frequently which can be annoying if you’re watering by hand.
Not good for plants that like to stay consistently moist.
Sandy soil, fast and furious.
Silt soil is comprised of particles that are smaller than sandy soil, but larger than clay. This soil is less obvious and resembles flour when dry. When wet, silt is smooth.
Pros of silt soil:
Holds onto nutrients better than sandy soil
Holds onto water better than sandy soil
Easier to work with than clay
Cons of silt soil:
Can experience erosion
Can drain poorly, form a crust, and become compact
Smooth as silt.
Finally, I get to talk about my favorite soil blend, Loam soil. This is the ideal soil for gardening and is composed of clay, sand, silt, and organic matter. It has 45-50 percent of these minerals, ideally 5 percent organic matter, and the rest is comprised of air and water. The texture is spongy. It holds onto water and nutrients well, but also allows excess water to drain. Sounds too good to be true, right?
Pros of Loam Soil:
Good airflow
Good water storage
Good nutrient storage
Good drainage for excess water
Ideal for vegetables and cutting gardens
Cons of Loam Soil:
Some plants prefer heavy clay and resent loam soil. This is good news for those of you who have soil mostly comprised of clay.
Loam doesn’t hold onto water as long as clay and this plays a role in climates where water is limited or if you’re in a drought.
There’s no place like Loam!
I hope you found this basic introduction to soils helpful. This is just scratching the “surface”, but I know it has made me look at soil differently and begin to understand it’s role in gardening. Armed with a little knowledge, I’m that much closer to success. I share a few tips below to help with your soil and to get you on the right track. I hope to see you in my next posts. Please comment down below.
Tips:
Add organic compost to all soil types such as grass clippings, leaves, straw, or wood chips every fall to help with soil texture and nitrogen over your flower beds and garden boxes.
If your soil is rich in clay buy plants that tolerate this soil and can even thrive such as Artemsia, Coreopsis, and Sedum.
Be patient (and diligent) with your soil. Adding natural mulch and compost will help with texture and nutrient problems overtime.
Get your soil tested and till in organic material and minerals depending on your soil type every year or two. Don’t over-till. Find a happy balance. Hard work pays off.
- The Flower Fanatic
